I secretly did not want to believe it, hoping that they would have made a mistake. They sometimes do, those weather people. I opened my laptop quickly and pulled open a browser. Google-searched “weather Boston MA.” The result came back invariably the same: “heat wave watch for four days.”
We did not except it to come so fast and truth being said, it hit us by surprise. The scorching sun and its overwhelming heat. One day it was jeans and jackets, and the following day we were wearing shorts and bikinis, and that was even too much to feel comfortable. How did it happen? I simply don’t know. How long it will last? I hope as short as possible. The heat and I, we are not best friends. In fact, we can get pretty upset at each other. Moi, especially.
So like everywhere when this happens, you hear people talk about this unfriendly heat, you hear stories about grilling, barbecuing, ice creams, salads and all sorts of foods to cool you off. Writer Kim O’Donnel at the Washington Post even wrote an article about it, with delightful ideas to feel inspired by — I contributed with my chilled avocado, orange and lime soup.
Oddly enough, from the list of possibilities, salads do not always necessarily do it for me. But a dessert made with fruit and a light vanilla-flavored cream might. But it is mainly the gourmande in me who is speaking then.
Sabayon might have a complicated name, somewhat enigmatic, but it is in fact a dish extremely easy to make. It is Italian in origin, and although it somewhat resembles a crème anglaise in its looks, it however does not require any addition of dairy, like milk — which is the case of a crème anglaise. Instead, it is typically made with wine like a Sauternes, or Champagne even, and is cooked with eggs and sugar beaten together until light.
Except that I decided to prepare a fruit version, and instead of using wine, I used apple juice.
Because if there is one kitchen appliance that I would truly find hard to let go of, if I had to, it is my juicer. I am a real sucker for fresh fruit or vegetable juices of all sorts. When you have a taste of what a freshly squeezed apple juice is compared to even la crème de la crème of any store-bought one, there is no possible way to go back.
I use my juicer for vegetable and fruit juice on nearly a daily basis. It comes particularly handy when I want to make recipes that involve fresh vegetable juices, like carrot or beet.
For this recipe, the sabayon technique stays the same. Beat the eggs with sugar, and once light, add the warm juice. Reheat gently to thicken the cream. Ni plus, ni moins.
The dessert is light, just sweet as one needs to be, colorful and refreshing. It does not require fancy techniques or ingredients — ok, perhaps just a juicer, if I have to insist — and can be made over and over, without anyone tiring of it. Well, it is really true when you have to deal with hot days like the ones we currently endure everywhere, it seems, on the East coast.
I still have to wonder who ever thought, up there, that anyone of us, down there, could enjoy hot and humid together. They just don’t go well together.
Unlike fruit and cream.
- 3 egg yolks
- 1/4 cup blond cane sugar + 2 Tbsp
- 2/3 cup fresh apple juice
- 2 Tbsp lime juice
- 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1 vanilla bean, split open, seeds scraped out
- Pinch of salt
- 1 lb 6 oz berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, blueberries
- Fresh mint, chopped coarsely
- Slivered almonds, dry roasted
- Wash the strawberries (and other berries) and dice them. Sprinkle with 2 Tbsp sugar and 1 Tbsp lime juice. Add the mint; keep on the side in the fridge.
- In a pot, heat the apple juice with 1 Tbsp lime juice, the vanilla seeds and bean, the cinnamon and salt. Once hot, stop the heat, and cover. Let infuse for 15 minutes and then remove the vanilla bean.
- In the meantime, in a large bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar until light.
- Reheat the juice and pour slowly on the mixture egg/sugar, stirring.
- Transfer to a pot and heat on low heat, stirring, to thicken the cream. It is ready when it coats the spoon.
- Pour onto the berries. You can also place the dessert under the broil for 2 minutes (paying close attention so that it does not burn). Serve with the almonds.
- 3 jaunes d’oeuf
- 50 g de sucre de canne blond + 2 càs
- 160 ml de jus de pomme frais
- 2 càs de jus de citron vert
- 1/4 càc de cannelle
- 1 gousse de vanille fendue et grattée
- Pincée de sel
- 600 g de mélange de fraises, framboises, myrtilles etc
- Menthe fraîche, ciselée
- Amandes grillées
- Lavez les fraises (et autres fruits rouges) et coupez-les en morceaux. Saupoudrez-les de 2 càs de sucre et 1 càs de jus de citron vert. Ajoutez la menthe ciselée; réservez au frais.
- Dans une casserole, faites chauffer le jus de pomme avec 1 càs de citron vert, la gousse de vanille et ses graines, la cannelle et le sel. Arrêtez le feu et laissez infuser à couvert pendant 15 minutes. Retirez ensuite la gousse de vanille.
- En attendant, dans une jatte, battez les jaunes d’oeuf avec le sucre jusqu’à blanchiment.
- Chauffez à nouveau le jus de fruits et versez en filet sur le mélange oeufs/sucre, tout en continuant à battre.
- Remettez sur le feu et faites épaissir sur feu doux à moyen, sans cesser de remuer. La crème épaissit et doit enrober la cuiller.
- Versez sur les fruits rouges. Vous pouvez aussi passer le sabayon avec les fruits sous le gril pendant 2 minutes (surveillez pour qu’il ne brûle pas). Servez avec les amandes grillées.