Apple Trees Give us a Queen — Les pommiers nous offrent une reine

November 7, 2007

reine reinette heirloom apple

Reine des Reinette Apple and Cranberry Cake

He stood six feet five inches tall with an impressive frame. I liked the soft smile that always lit up his face, even when he was somewhat upset. I had been often told that, when I was three years of age, he used to tease me with his bristly mustache and beard. “Mais ca pique,” (but it prickles) I used to whisper in my mum’s ear every single time I was asked to kiss him good bye. Since I was the only petite-fille (grand-daughter) he had, I was also his little chouchou.

My grand-father was a man that loved the land, la terre. After all, he was a farmer, and this is probably from him that I have drawn my love for nature. With him, I have learned to enjoy the smell of hay on a warm breathy summery day, the sound of autumn leaves rustling under our feet when we strolled in the forest during autumn, or the exhilarating feeling of returning home with our boots covered with dirt, after walking for long hours in rain-drenched fields. My grand-mother would then always tell us off when she saw us come back filthy, with his two short Teckel dogs following; we would smile when she had her back turned, amused and feeling complicit.

My grand-father’s name was Henri and he was my father’s dad.

“Il faut que vous veniez cueillir les pommes,” (you have to come to pick the apples) he used to tell us when, every year by early September, his Reine des Reinette apple trees were full of ripe fruit. They were not the most beautiful looking apples in his orchard, but he was extremely protective of them. I quickly grew as fond of them as he was. These apples were special indeed: they meant homemade tarts and compotes which my mum would bake during many afternoons, or slices of the raw fruit which we would add to fromage blanc with raisins, giving us enough good excuses to drive the short ten kilometers between my parents’ house and the village where my grand-parents owned their farm and large verger (orchard).


reine reinette heirloom apple

La reine des Reinette

The last time I ate reine des reinette was at my brother’s house in October. Remember? During a whole weekend, he kept bugging my sister-in-law and I to pick the apples.

“Venez, il faut les cueillir, elles vont pourrir sinon” (come to pick them, otherwise they will start rotting) he insisted.

Was he really asking like my grand-father H. used to? We laughed a lot at the thought, shouting back “plus tard” (later) from the back garden where she and I were lazily lying in long chairs. But truth being said, since I do not have many opportunities to eat this apple variety anymore, I was quite thrilled to help him with the chore. La reine des Reinette is indeed a real queen.

Although reines des Reinette are common apples in France, this is not the case in the United States, at least to my knowledge. But recently, luck was on my side. A few weeks ago, when Bonnie B. emailed me to ask whether I would be interested in attending a special Heirloom Apple event held in Boston, my curiosity was picked.

Heirloom apples**?

“We will have reine des Reinette,” she added. “Amongst many other varieties.”

I could not miss this!

But unfortunately, the event happened while I was at the food styling workshop in L.A. At first, I felt bummed. So I pondered, trying to find a way, and soon enough, an idea crossed my mind. I emailed Bonnie back.

”Can I have a few bags put on the side for me? My husband will come and pick them up.”

“Of course.”

** Heirloom apples are usually defined as those in cultivation for 100 or more years. Sometimes considered less pretty by modern standards, they are however much tastier than new varieties. They are truly unique.

My brother and his apples; the cake

With a smooth, shiny outer skin, the reine des reinette is the best apple within the Reinette family. Its color ranges from gold yellow, when the fruit is mature, to orange red, which is the sign of longer exposure to the sun. Its white flesh is slightly acid, but deliciously sweet and juicy. Although this apple is excellent eaten raw, it proves even better when cooked and used in stews or tarts. It is typically harvested between September to late October, but keeps for a few months when stored properly in a cold room.

In arboreal nomenclature, the word Reinette is a symbol of excellence. It has been used for over 4 centuries; Charles Estienne, who was a horticulturist, was one of the first person to mention it, in 1540.

Other Reinette Apples

Reinette Clochard
Reinette Grise du Canada
Reinette du Mans
Reinette de Caux

reine reinette apples heirloom

“Où sont les pommes ?” (where are the apples?) I asked P. as soon as I walked in the house last Monday night, just back from the airport.

“Elles ont l’air bonnes,” (they look good) he had told me on the phone when I had inquired about them. I was worried that he would forget to pick my Reinette apples.

They were just as I remembered. It was my first time seeing reine des reinette in the United States. It felt cozy and familiar, and nicely strange as well. For a second, I almost forgot where I was. A first time is always peculiar.

I ate the first one raw, taking my time to savor every bite of the juicy flesh. Deep inside, I was already hoping that my two bags would last me for ever. And the next day, I decided to bake a cake. I made it simple: I wanted the taste of the apples to stand out.

While it stayed moist, this cake somewhat resembled a thick apple crêpe. Do not expect a high risen cake, or you might be disappointed. Instead, imagine layers of apples wrapped in a cooked light, sweet batter. I used quinoa and brown rice, making the cake gluten-free, but should you have difficulty finding these flours, white flour would work as fine.

“Y’a encore du gâteau que tu as fait hier ? J’ai un petit creux.” (Is there still some of the cake you made yesterday? I feel like a nibble.) P. asked me.

There wasn’t any more cake. Of course not! But since I felt as keen as P. to have the taste of the apples again, I did not need him to twist my arm to bake another cake. La reine des reinette is my queen apple, after all.

Just as much as it is for both my grand-father and brother who, I am convinced, would have enjoyed a taste of the cake too. They both know that la reine des reinette never disappoints, and cannot wait.

reine reinette apple cake

Reine des Reinette Apple and Cranberry Cake

(Gluten Free, uses quinoa and brown rice)


You need:

  • 3 large Reine des Reinette apples
  • 2 oz dried cranberries (soaked in hot water for 20 min)
  • 3 eggs
  • 7 Tbsp butter, melted
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp fleur de sel
  • 3 Tbsp quinoa flour* (25 g)
  • 5 Tbsp brown rice flour* (50 g)
  • 1/3 cup + 1 Tbsp light brown sugar
  • 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

*Substitute with regular white flour if you cannot find these flours

Steps:

  • Sift the flours with the baking powder and keep on the side.
  • Soak the cranberries in hot water for 20 min, then drain.
  • In the meantime, peel your apples, remove the core and slice them thinly.
  • Preheat your oven at 350 F.
  • Break the eggs in a large bowl and beat them with the sugar and fleur de sel, until light.
  • Add the melted butter and the rest of dry ingredients. Mix well but not for too long, until everything is incorporated.
  • Add the apple slices.
  • Butter a round 9.5″ mold and pour in the apple batter.
  • Top evenly with the cranberries.
  • Cook in the oven for 30 to 35 min. Remove and let cool for a few min before unmolding on a large plate. Eat it lukewarm, it is even better.
Le coin français
Gâteau aux pommes et canneberges

(Recette sans gluten, utilisant des farines de quinoa et de riz complet)


Ingrédients :

  • 3 belles pommes Reine des Reinette
  • 50 g de canneberges sèchées (trempées dans de l’eau chaude pendant 20 min)
  • 3 oeufs
  • 100 g de beurre fondu
  • 1 càc de levure chimique
  • 1/2 càc de fleur de sel
  • 25 g de farine de quinoa*
  • 50 g de farine de riz complet*
  • 60 g de sucre de canne brun léger
  • 1/4 càc de cannelle en poudre

*Remplacez par de la farine blanche si vous ne pouvez pas trouver ces farines.

Étapes :

  • Tamisez les farines et la levure, et mettez de côté.
  • Faites tremper les canneberges dans de l’eau chaude pendant 20 min. Filtrez.
  • Pendant ce temps, pelez les pommes, évidez-les et coupez-les en tranches fines.
  • Préchauffez votre four à 180 C.
  • Cassez les oeufs dans une jatte et battez-les avec le sucre et la fleur de sel jusqu’à ce que la préparation soit aérée et légère.
  • Ajoutez le beurre fondu, puis le reste des ingrédients secs. Mélangez à peine, pour que tout soit incorporé.
  • Ajoutez les tranches de pommes.
  • Beurrez un moule à manqué de 24 cm de diamètre et versez-y le mélange de pâte/pommes.
  • Répartissez les canneberges sur la pâte.
  • Cuisez au four pendant environ 30 à 35 min. Sortez du four et laissez reposer quelques minutes avant de démouler. Mangez-le tiède, il est encore meilleur.
Share and Enjoy:
  • Print this article!
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Twitter
Tagged as: Cakes , Dessert , French Inspired , Fruit , Gluten Free
Save to del.icio.us

54 Comments »

The comments for this entry can be syndicated via RSS. You can trackback from your own site.

  1. cute apple~

    cute cake~ i wanna a piece of it:)

    Comment by YOYO's Cooking — On November, 7th, 2007 at 11:36 pm

  2. Jealous of your appless…and the lovely cake you made with them.

    Comment by peabody — On November, 8th, 2007 at 12:01 am

  3. J’avoue confondre un peu toutes les variétés de pommes diponibles ici en France — mais je reconnais bien les R des R! J’adore leur nom…

    Comment by Betty C. — On November, 8th, 2007 at 12:08 am

  4. You are an angel for posting these amazing, gorgeous looking recipes for gluten-free goodies! I will add this to the next Gluten-Free Roundup, for sure.

    Comment by Gluten-Free Bay — On November, 8th, 2007 at 12:44 am

  5. un gâteau avec une pomme qui porte un nom digne d’un conte de fée ne peut donner qu’un gâteau magique et plein de saveurs… et voici toute la poésie de la cuisine.

    Comment by b comme bon — On November, 8th, 2007 at 1:10 am

  6. That’s one gorgeous little cake Bea. J’adoooore les reinettes.
    xxx

    Comment by fanny — On November, 8th, 2007 at 1:15 am

  7. Bea, I always love your stories. I will have to look for heirloom apples now as I’m sure they will sweep the country. I remember discovering Pink Ladys in Seattle several years ago. I would swear that was the apple tree in my grandmother’s yard 50 year ago. As you say “cozy and familiar, and nicely strange as well.” Love the photo in the little spring form pan.

    Comment by MyKitchhenInHalfCups — On November, 8th, 2007 at 1:36 am

  8. As usual, your post made me dream… I loved that story! One of my favorite apples is the French “Boscoop”. Gorgeous! Your cake looks truely wonderful!

    Cheers,

    Rosa

    Comment by Rosa — On November, 8th, 2007 at 3:09 am

  9. What a beautifull post. It made me a little child and granddaughter again. My Grandparents had a little garden with a very special apple tree with perfect apples. And I missed their taste for years untill I found a market place here in Berlin last year where farmers are selling old and rare sorts of old apples in their season and found my childhood-apple again.

    Comment by creezy — On November, 8th, 2007 at 5:18 am

  10. what a lovely post!

    Comment by Kat — On November, 8th, 2007 at 5:35 am

  11. Il a l’air délicieux !

    Comment by bergeou — On November, 8th, 2007 at 6:31 am

  12. Wonderful post and memories about your grandfather. The cake looks wonderful– very like a recipe I have for an apple cake that incorporates ricotta or cottage cheese and is also quite flat and rustic. You’ve inspired me to make it again.

    Comment by Ann — On November, 8th, 2007 at 6:36 am

  13. Bea,
    Are the cranberries the dried ones?

    Comment by Patricia — On November, 8th, 2007 at 8:53 am

  14. What a lovely post. Isn’t the connection between food and memory strange but wonderful? And I’m glad to see this recipe is gluten free — I will pass it along to my mother, who has celiac!

    Comment by Dana — On November, 8th, 2007 at 9:04 am

  15. Je n’avais aucune idee que ces pommes, si communes ici, pouvaient etre considerees comme pommes du patrimoine aux Etats-Unis. C’est vrai qu’elles sont jolies, tout autant que ton histoire – et que ce gateau tres tentant.

    Comment by gracianne — On November, 8th, 2007 at 9:05 am

  16. Vraiment, j’adore ce gâteau et je le garde en réserve, surtout qu’il est déjà sans gluten. Nul besoin d’adapter la recette.

    Merci pour cette belle histoire.

    Comment by Miss Diane — On November, 8th, 2007 at 10:24 am

  17. Beautiful writing, Bea! Probably the best so far. The opening was such a great catch.

    Now, let me ask: quinoa flour and brown rice flour, is that really rare or would the odds be pretty good to find them in the store? Perhaps my little special organic store that sells all sorts of flour in bulk.

    Comment by Christina — On November, 8th, 2007 at 10:39 am

  18. HI,i just wanted to tell you that your blog and pictures and recipes are beautiful!!!ciao,teresa

    Comment by Teresa — On November, 8th, 2007 at 1:12 pm

  19. I just love your apple cake… it looks so good!
    Ciao.

    Comment by Orchidea — On November, 8th, 2007 at 2:19 pm

  20. What a lovely cake! I am enjoying the apples (yes, I am getting those here in the Vendee) with yogurt for lunch almost every day. The ARE delicious!

    Comment by Katie — On November, 8th, 2007 at 3:31 pm

  21. What a beautiful apple and cranberry cake! Two of my favorite foods this time of year.

    Comment by Monique — On November, 8th, 2007 at 3:34 pm

  22. Béatrice…Je te chipe ta recette…Rien que de voir la photo…hummm j’en deviens gourmande de plaisir…En plus dimanche,on a fait la cueillette des pommes dans un verger.

    Comment by Eleonora — On November, 8th, 2007 at 3:42 pm

  23. Beautiful apples! The cake looks magnificent aswell…just what I would love to eat with a nice big cup of latte.

    Comment by Katia — On November, 8th, 2007 at 8:20 pm

  24. Those are the “less pretty” apples? They look pretty good to me.

    Comment by Katie Nolan — On November, 8th, 2007 at 10:28 pm

  25. et voila que je descends au marche ds qq minutes… ta recette me donne envie ! Bonne journee a toi !

    Comment by corinne — On November, 9th, 2007 at 2:49 am

  26. A very nice post, which brought very nice memories back to me. The cake is lovely:)

    Comment by Deb — On November, 9th, 2007 at 10:00 am

  27. I’ve been mad about cranberries lately, but I haven’t done much with apples. This is such a nice, simple cake. I can think of many occasions when such a recipe would be just perfect. Heirloom apples must be such a treat!
    Julie

    Comment by Julie O'Hara — On November, 9th, 2007 at 11:57 am

  28. What a great use of fall’s best fruits – apples and cranberries. Gorgeous, Bea.

    Comment by Hillary — On November, 9th, 2007 at 1:33 pm

  29. Your blog is one of my favorite, favorites ever. Thanks for always posting such beautiful things.

    Comment by rebekka — On November, 9th, 2007 at 1:55 pm

  30. What I loved about this cake, having had the great fortune to taste it, is that the lightness of the cake allowed the flavor of the apples to truly shine. Wonderful!

    Comment by rekha — On November, 9th, 2007 at 2:55 pm

  31. What a great story and a beautiful recipe and cake to illustrate it. I love Reinettes…they bake beautiful and are very fragrant. You make me nostalgic for the little uggly apples our tree would give. Tart but with the flavor of quinces. Love the use of gf flours!

    Comment by Tartelette — On November, 10th, 2007 at 11:13 am

  32. This look delicious how ever!!!! Nice picture!!!Gloria

    Comment by gloria — On November, 10th, 2007 at 11:21 am

  33. I just had to tell you, I made this cake the minute I saw the pictures and I absolutely loved it! I used Honeycrisp apples as I didn’t have Reines des Reinettes and it turned out great. Thanks so much for posting this recipe and as always such beautiful pictures!

    Comment by LyB — On November, 10th, 2007 at 12:08 pm

  34. Love the pic and looks yummy!!!

    Comment by mycookinghut — On November, 10th, 2007 at 2:49 pm

  35. Miam. Je m’en vais de ce pas cueillir des pommes au supermarché du coin

    Comment by LeCookieMasqué — On November, 11th, 2007 at 6:41 am

  36. What a gorgeous looking cake! I loved your story about your grandfather’s apples, particularly as my gran used to have an apple tree in her garden as well (I’m now reminisicing over how we used to go and and pick them when we were little).

    Mmm, I’m hungry now ^__^

    Comment by Indigo — On November, 11th, 2007 at 12:12 pm

  37. Ah la Reine de Reinettes !!! Une de mes pommes préférée !!
    Merci pour cette magnifique recette que je m’empresse d’imprimer !

    Comment by inoule — On November, 11th, 2007 at 4:24 pm

  38. Voici un dessert qui est fort tentant, avec une fois encore, de superbes photos ! Continue à nous allécher ainsi…

    Comment by sophie — On November, 12th, 2007 at 5:11 am

  39. Thank you all for your comments. I hope that you will be able to taste these apples one day indeed, if you have not so far. They are really delicious. I also asked Bonnie where to find them in New England, so should you be interested, drop me a line!

    Comment by Béa — On November, 12th, 2007 at 12:15 pm

  40. je découvre votre blog!!!j’adore vos photos , textes et recettes!!!!BRAVO !

    Comment by Marilyn — On November, 12th, 2007 at 3:45 pm

  41. Looks absolutely delicious! My mother brought back some Reinette Grise du Canada from Montreal when she went there. They were very good.

    Comment by Jelena — On November, 13th, 2007 at 8:16 pm

  42. Oh, that’s BEAUTIFUL. I was actually on my way to the store to buy apples to make an apple crisp, but I think I might have to change my plans. Thank you for the recipe and gorgeous photos!

    Comment by Anna — On November, 14th, 2007 at 8:24 am

  43. Hi.. found you from Simply Recipies’ cranberry links. This cake looks great and not too high sugar – perfect for the little ones. Question for you is the 9.5″ mold – is that a springform? Would some custard pan or alternative glass baking dish work instead? Thanks…. Maureen

    Comment by Maureen — On November, 14th, 2007 at 2:02 pm

  44. Thank you again.

    Maureen, you do not need a spring form mold. I did it once with one, and the other time without. Flip it then carefully on a plate with the help of another plate placed on top.

    Comment by Béa — On November, 14th, 2007 at 2:41 pm

  45. Sorry, not typically a baker, so does that mean I can just use a 9″ cake pan? Thanks Bea – much appreciate you replying.

    Comment by Maureen — On November, 14th, 2007 at 5:15 pm

  46. bea, we got no chef on board now galley mine am doing the cooking.. i saved this recipe will do this one sometime… there is no day bea i dont think of french pastry shops and boulangerie think I really fell in love with france this time round it was my 2nd year of 7 months stay…. hope is well

    Comment by shalimar — On November, 15th, 2007 at 12:15 am

  47. Your blog is unbelievably beautiful. I am addicted to it. I love your writing, the photographs and your recipes. Thank you for all your great work!

    Comment by GAby — On March, 12th, 2008 at 10:48 pm

  48. [...] Cannelle & Vanille (among others).  These cakes were inspired directly from a recipe for an apple cranberry cake by Béa at La Tartine Gourmande.  I didn’t have apples on hand, nor do I actually own the [...]

    Pingback by Pear & Raspberry Mini-Cakes « l’art de la table — On April, 26th, 2008 at 3:45 am

  49. I just made this with apples and walnuts (instead of cranberries) :-)
    Am serving it with vanilla ice cream. It smells so good.
    Thank you once again Bea for sharing your wonderful recettes!

    Comment by Megh — On August, 6th, 2008 at 12:01 pm

  50. [...] tarts around in our house. After going to a Foliage Festival last weekend where I bought delicious Reine des Reinettes, I now have too many delicious apples that need to find a home. And what better thing but treat [...]

    Pingback by Simplicity with Apples — Simplicité et des pommes | La Tartine Gourmande — On November, 3rd, 2008 at 10:19 am

  51. This is the best cake I have ever made. I doubled the recipe to use my large springform pan. So moist and delicious. Thank you for sharing your kitchen wisdom.

    Comment by valentinamamma — On November, 12th, 2008 at 1:32 am

  52. Geography matters! Tell us about the conditions of soil, rain, temperature, insecticide used or permitted, Would they grow in Vancouver Island, BC? Long Beach Penninsular? Southwestern WA? it is in the rain forest. Reinnette apple Receipe for fish and seafood?

    Comment by Sally Gilson Trust — On January, 1st, 2009 at 2:02 am

  53. [...] Apple,Cranberry and Praline Cake Adapted minimally from this recipe from La Tartine Gourmand [...]

    Pingback by Apple, Cranberry & Praline Cake… and Ten in 10!! | Sony Bravia HDTV LCD Televisions — On January, 24th, 2010 at 1:18 am

  54. [...] Apple,Cranberry and Praline Cake Adapted minimally from this recipe from La Tartine Gourmand [...]

    Pingback by Apple, Cranberry & Praline Cake… and Ten in 10!! | Specialized Bikes — On January, 24th, 2010 at 1:19 am

Leave a comment

Copyright © 2005 - 2010 by Béatrice Peltre. All rights reserved. Photo licensing info.