Cycling Weekend in Block Island — Week end à vélo à Block Island
It only takes one hour on the regular ferry to arrive to Block Island. Many people prefer to board the more recent high speed ferry too — shortening the trip to only thirty minutes — but P. and I were not feeling in a rush, even if we were keen to discover this small island off the coast of Rhode Island.
When I asked P. what he wanted to do for Labor Day weekend, he was feeling like me: we could not think about anything original beside that we wanted to find a destination away from people. “Ca va être plutôt dur à trouver ce week end !” P. told me when I insisted that we should go somewhere quiet and countryside-like (It will be hard to find this weekend!) Then I remembered Block Island. Why not? It had been years since we both wanted to visit this small island, which we had heard was still rural and casual compared to neighboring islands like Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard. I was pretty sure that most places would be full since I was calling so late in the season — at least the type of accommodations where we usually prefer to stay. Big hotels were out of the question; we wanted a quiet friendly spot with character like a small B&B.
“We have had a cancellation so yes, we have a room if you want it,” Gabby at Sea Breeze Inn told me when I called.
“Do we need a car, or are we OK with our bikes only?” I carried on.
“You will be just fine. You can cycle pretty much everywhere.”
“We are coming!” I exclaimed joyfully before hanging up.
We had a weekend getaway plan.
Booking the ferry was easy. We only needed a spot for two seats and two bikes since our plan was to leave the car in Point Judith, one hour and a quarter away from Boston. As Mother Luck was on our side — ah merci bien — not only did the weather turn out gorgeously sunny despite a refreshing ocean breeze, but the Sea Breeze Inn exceeded what we had expected to find upon our arrival.
When we arrived in the village of Old Harbor early on Saturday morning, we had one bag, our bikes, a few books to read and an eagerness to cycle and relax by the water. After a five-minute walk up the hill overlooking the whole coast, we were welcomed by Gabby, the woman running the inn. When she saw us push our bikes in the downhill cobble-stoned driveway, her tanned face lit up with a friendly smile.
“You’re Béatrice, aren’t you?”, she said in a confident tone, as if she had already met me before. By looking at her strong, energetic body — just as tanned as her face — I guessed that she was a woman spending a lot of time working outside in the sun. I loved that she walked bare foot everywhere: I felt at home right away.
A quick tour of the property made us discover numerous small details that always make me love a house and place: deck chairs cleverly placed where I knew we would sit to read and watch the ocean; rooms with simple, unpretentious and rustic furniture; a well-kept, yet wild garden full of abounding, colorful flowers where butterflies seemed to have found a mini paradise. Then, I also noticed wild peas growing in the middle of tall pink field flowers, and ripe cherry yellow tomatoes that I disciplined myself not to steal and gulp down.
“You can also borrow the canoes to paddle on the ponds,” Gabby added when she pointed in the direction of the two ponds located between the house and the ocean. “And, if you look to your right while walking down, you will also see a hammock. That is if you feel like taking a quiet nap during the day.”
Tucked away from the busier streets of the village near the harbor, we had really found a haven of peace for our weekend.
Block Island is a 7,000 acre island about seven miles long and three miles across at its widest point, with a population of about 1,000 permanent residents. Of course, during summer, this number grows considerably. Located twelve miles from Long Island and about the same distance from Charlestown, it is a perfect spot for anyone loving the outdoors, with gorgeous white-sanded beaches, a welcoming web of hiking trails, and plenty of water activities for all tastes. With more than forty percent of its land conserved, it really still offers untouched natural beauty. Of course, we noticed that not everyone wants to spend his or her time the same way: some would prefer to visit the place only for the day to party, while others would tend to stay away to enjoy the quietness of the place. And while some bike, others prefer to use mopeds — our choice was quickly made.
So we cycled, picnicked and cycled again. One day, we visited the Bluffs, dramatic cliffs on top of which sits a majestic, once relocated lighthouse, then we continued on and cycled and walked to the northern tip of Mansion Beach for an early afternoon picnic and swim. Later that afternoon, we reached North Light where we stopped to nap and watch the sun go down on West Beach. On our second day on the island, our program looked about the same, and just as good. This time, we headed south and made it to Dorry’s Cove Beach and Charlestown Beach.
We dined formally on the first night and simply on the second. Since Gabby had recommended dinner at the Atlantic Inn, we followed her advice. She had lived most of her life on the island, so we trusted that she knew well the places around the island.
And right on. The food was surprisingly good. The Atlantic Inn is a large Victorian building sitting atop a hill overlooking the village of Old Harbor and the ocean below. Beside offering tapas and coktails that customers enjoy on the veranda at sunset, the restaurant also suggests a four-course menu for $49, without wines.
Our dinner started with a complementary tasty curried scallop as an mise-en-bouche. Then, while P. chose the shrimp and tuna carpaccio, I had the potato blinis with caviar and crème fraîche. The appetizers were by far the parts of the meal that we preferred — even if we enjoyed the rest of the meal, all the same. To cleanse palate between courses, we were served a refreshing small lime granité that reminded me of the trou lorrain served in my area in France, but without the alcohol. Then, while P. chose beet gnocchi, I opted for the butterfish with an orange-flavored sauce presented on a bed of julienned crunchy vegetables. Our dessert? A poached pear tartlet for P. and a plum cobbler with five-spice ice cream for me.
High Street
Block Island, RI
(800) 224 7422
“It is too nice to be so close to home,” P. told me when I mentioned how much I liked the place.
“Yes, I just do not know why we waited for so long before coming.”
But then, we had an excuse. We never thought that Block Island would be such a nice place to visit. In fact, deep inside, we had been scared that it could perhaps look like Cape Cod on a busy summer day. You know the feeling, don’t you? Sometimes you really get disappointed when your expectations are simply set too high.
But Block Island surely did not disappoint.
“Oh, we will be back,” I told Gabby on Monday afternoon, when we were about to leave to get on the ferry.
“With or without the sun, I am sure the place offers beauty all the same, no matter the color of the sky.”
Spring Street
Block Island, RI
(401) 466 2275
Technorati Tags: Food Styling, La Tartine Gourmande, Food Photography, Block Island, Cycling, Labor Day Weekend
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beautiful! simply beautiful. thank you for sharing with us in blogworld.
Comment by lindsay — On September, 4th, 2007 at 8:14 pm
I love that you post about your travels, it’s so lovely to see and read. I’ve traveled a good bit on the east coast, so it’s always nice to revisit places I’ve been and to be introduced to new ones. I can’t believe that starfish on block island!
Comment by Mercedes — On September, 4th, 2007 at 8:35 pm
So beautiful! It made me think of my getaway to the beach a while back…and my upcoming week in the mountains. I can’t wait to get out and take some photos…thank you for sharing and posting something so inspiring.
Comment by tami — On September, 4th, 2007 at 9:27 pm
Hi Bea,
I’ve been to Block Island! I have a friend who has a house there and she invited me once for a few days. It was just a wonderful place, truly perfect. I’m so glad you got to visit there. (And you live so much closer to it than I do; you can return many times!)
Comment by Kalyn — On September, 4th, 2007 at 10:00 pm
What a gorgeous and evocative collection of photographs! And I love the slow pace that traveling only by ferry and bike imposes.
Comment by Casey — On September, 4th, 2007 at 10:54 pm
soooo beautiful island
so gourgeous photos
Comment by YOYO's FOOD — On September, 4th, 2007 at 11:36 pm
This looks SO wonderful. And it’s how I felt before I went to Greece: would it be too crowded? Too touristy? Would it not really be a getaway? I’m glad your experience turned out to be just as special as mine
Comment by nicole — On September, 4th, 2007 at 11:56 pm
You are too great a photographer…you always come back with pictures so beautiful…or I guess east coast is just more scenic? Well, I think it’s still your photography skills!
Comment by Rasa Malaysia — On September, 5th, 2007 at 12:59 am
Truly fabulous photos as always. Looks and sounds like you ahd a lovely time.
Comment by Katie — On September, 5th, 2007 at 1:04 am
merci de nous faire partager ces belles ambiances…
des paysages qui me sont inconnus… ça donne juste envie de prendre l’avion !
Comment by b comme bon — On September, 5th, 2007 at 1:06 am
Wonderful! I have no other word to describe tha way Block Island looks and your magnificent pictures!
Comment by Rosa — On September, 5th, 2007 at 1:21 am
Transportée par tes photographies!
Comment by $ha — On September, 5th, 2007 at 1:37 am
Oh Béa, qu’est-ce que ton post me fait réaliser à quel point le Rhode Island me manque, depuis que j’ai quitté Providence le mois passé ! Le ciel, les plages, la côte… Profite bien de ta proximité avec cette belle région!
Comment by Thérèse — On September, 5th, 2007 at 2:46 am
What a wonderfull place! I write from Italy and I always read your great blog, but I never dare to leave a comment… today I don’t resist!
bye bye
xxx
Comment by franci — On September, 5th, 2007 at 3:36 am
Oh Béa, what an incredible place, week-end get away is right. Return, oh I would. Your pictures really transport as always. I really think you’ve shown me around. What a lovely place. Hope it stays that way. Thank you.
Comment by MyKitchhenInHalfCups — On September, 5th, 2007 at 3:40 am
oh làlà! quel retour en beauté!
Comment by leonine19 — On September, 5th, 2007 at 4:58 am
quel coin superbe. je ne connaissais pas mais c’est sublime et tes photos nous racontent toujours une histoire ou une atmosphère
Comment by marie — On September, 5th, 2007 at 5:30 am
Ah…j’aurais aime etre une gourde dans le panier de ton velo (une idee de reincarnation peut etre).
Comment by julieM — On September, 5th, 2007 at 7:24 am
Bea - it’s funny how we take for granted some beautiful places that are just in our back yard. I am guilty with that too. You have inspired me to look for these places. And thanks for taking us along with you with these magnificent pictures.
Comment by veron — On September, 5th, 2007 at 8:52 am
Bea, those Dahlias are heavenly. My friend’s getting married in Maine next weekend, and all the flowers will be dahlias. You make such familiar-sounding places look so exotically beautiful - each time I come to your site I realize how much beauty there is nearby. Thank you for that.
Comment by Figs Olives Wine — On September, 5th, 2007 at 11:22 am
merci pour ce magnifique post…. hum comme ca fait envie tt ca !
Comment by corinne — On September, 5th, 2007 at 12:02 pm
You’ve done a great job of capturing Block Island’s beauty!
Comment by Block Island Jobs — On September, 5th, 2007 at 5:02 pm
I’ve never seen a more beautiful collection of photos! I know I say this every time but gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. And the food is nothing short of gorgeous either.
Comment by Hillary — On September, 5th, 2007 at 5:37 pm
A monarch butterfly! They’re so beautiful! I’ve never been to Block Island (but have been meaning to travel there for years). Thanks for the gorgeous travelog–and now I even know where to stay when I go.
Comment by Lisa (Homesick Texan) — On September, 5th, 2007 at 7:10 pm
You take beautiful photos, Bea. Wish I could have one of those DSLR cameras too. THough I’m a greenhorn with it. Hee…
I chanced upon your Ratatouille Tatin Tart posted back in April and I must say it looks utterly delicious. I’m looking for a good recipe for the dish and yours look wonderful. Could you share the recipe with me, please?
Comment by Jacelyn — On September, 5th, 2007 at 11:01 pm
Merci de nous faire faire cette jolie promenade … virtuelle …
Comment by Fabienne — On September, 6th, 2007 at 4:03 am
Magnifiques images…qui font rêver!
Comment by lory — On September, 6th, 2007 at 5:02 am
Ca c’est l’Amerique que je reve de decouvrir. Quel magnifique weekend. Merci Bea.
Comment by Gracianne — On September, 6th, 2007 at 5:43 am
Beautiful photos… and nice trip!
Ciao.
Comment by Orchidea — On September, 6th, 2007 at 8:20 am
What a fabulous spot, fabulous post with wonderful photographs. I especially like all the ones of the bikes and baskets, and the lovely pink dahlia
Thanks for sharing
Joanna
joannasfood.blogspot.com
Comment by Joanna — On September, 6th, 2007 at 8:45 am
Wonderful pictures . It lets me almost breathless …
You have so much talent
Comment by Mélanie — On September, 6th, 2007 at 9:37 am
Je me disais que tu devais te balader quelque part et j’attendais ton compte rendu avec impatience. A chaque fois tes recits de weekend ne decoivent pas. Superbes photos…Tu me donne envie de prendre des vacances! Ah si seulement c’etait aussi facile!
Comment by Tartelette — On September, 6th, 2007 at 12:20 pm
God, I needed that vacation. Thank you for the photo getaway. Lovely.
Comment by urbanvegan — On September, 6th, 2007 at 4:03 pm
I’ve been visiting your site for over a year, but never posted a comment. This recent vacation of yours warranted a comment. I want a slice of seclusion with bicycles and tasty treats.
Comment by lauren — On September, 6th, 2007 at 4:59 pm
Thank you all again for visiting. Always much appreciated! Merci, merci! It warms me up to hear you enjoy my travelogues. I love to share these with you!
Comment by Béa — On September, 6th, 2007 at 9:31 pm
You found the best place to go and the best way to get around. Your descriptions and photos made me long for the island again.
Comment by Marilyn Terrell — On September, 8th, 2007 at 2:43 am
beautiful photos and what a great adventure!
Comment by Kat — On September, 8th, 2007 at 6:43 am
C’est magnifique Béa ! J’adore tes escapades et je voyage rien qu’à regarder tes photos et à lire tes articles…
Encore une destination à ne pas oublier ! Bon, maintenant, je n’ai plus qu’à gagner au loto…
Amicalement blog,
Ingrid
Comment by Ingrid — On September, 8th, 2007 at 7:46 am
We went there years ago. Seeing it again through your eyes makes me want to return with our children some day soon!
Comment by Kit — On September, 8th, 2007 at 10:49 pm
Oh, Bea, you take the best vacations! (or maybe they are just the type of vacations I like best:-). These photos are gorgeous–and even though I live on the opposite side of the country, with islands aplenty out here, I want to go to your island right now.
Comment by Tea — On September, 11th, 2007 at 1:43 am
[...] hearing about places you never knew existed? I was so captivated by Bea’s description of a Weekend on Block Island on her blog La Tartine Gourmande that I just had to find out more about the place! Although [...]
Pingback by Pensive Frog » Blog Archive » Wanderlust Friday — On September, 14th, 2007 at 6:03 pm
where do you find your places? can i consult you for my next secluded weekend wiht just a bike?
Comment by pessy — On September, 17th, 2007 at 1:07 pm
[...] interesting architecture and numerous universities — we also have ample access to nature with gorgeous beaches, mountains and open fields nearby. But I have met people who liked none of the previous, as [...]
Pingback by The beginning — Le début by La Tartine Gourmande — On October, 17th, 2007 at 9:54 am
Bea,
Nice blog, which I found via Flickr — my wife and I share passion for Block Island and for cuisine francaise! Good luck!
Comment by TimDD — On October, 25th, 2007 at 3:36 pm
Hi Bea,
I am Ema - an amature cook and have been one of the admirers of your cookings and photos. After my Sony cybershot started mulfunctioning, I decided to get either Canon or Nicon. I remember seeing in one of your cooking pages you were showing the imige of your camera which you shoot all your pictures. I couldn’t find that page unfortunately . I like the quality of your photos and was wondering if it’s OK to ask you which camera you use.
Sincerely,
Ema
ema5friends@yahoo.com
Comment by Ema — On December, 16th, 2007 at 11:08 pm